Volšovy

On Wednesday, when we visited Kadov, the sun was shining.  The day before and every day since, it has been raining in Sušice and apparently, all over the Czech Republic.  Vladka sent me an email saying that the sun came out for my visit.

Do you recognize, when you meet someone for the fist time, something in the eyes that is deeper than color or kindness? Like God, I suppose, for those who call the spirit God.

Last night, I met Marie Hrečínová Prodanová, an incredible woman who is the Castelanka at the castle in Volšovy, about 2 km from Sušice. She welcomed us to a gathering organized by one of our hosts, Roman Makerlík. Steve had visited Volševy with Roman on Tuesday night, while I was teaching Helena, Roman's wife, and several other Czechs in my first-ever ELL writing class.

Our lovely potluck gathering included six of our students and many of our Czech hosts.  I made a fruit salad and Steve made a green salad with tuna.  Marie provided several varieties of čaj (tea) and coffee.  Families brought home-made dishes that can best be described as Czech pizza (which Pavlína made) and spanikopita (which Helena made) and the BEST little kolačichs, prepared by Radka.  These are wee pastries made with plum preserves and cottage cheese and soaked in buttered rum, rolled in sugar.  You cannot imagine how good they tasted and how much I suffered through the night for my indulgence.

From our arrival, the students were involved with our Czech friends, translating stories, playing chess, taking photos, and playing with the children.  I am so impressed with this group of Americans, proof that we are not all hamburgers and guns.

Marie and her family have been renovating the state-owned Volšovy castle, which dates back to the 12^th century, since 2001. In the mid 19th century, the castle was occupied by a count and countess who eventually bequeathed it to the Catholic Church, and became a nunnery.  

From what I understand, the castle housed an orphanage until the onset of communism, under which it became an army barracks.  The soldiers sacked the place.  It was abandoned until Maria and her family began the restoration.  

The castle and its gardens now serve as a community center. The organization hosts art and theater workshops and offers the sleeping quarters to anyone who wants to stay. One wing is a nightly homeless shelter (Sušice has approximately 10 homeless people).

I spent last night in one of the castle’s beautifully renovated dorm rooms with Jay, David, and Emily, three of our American students, and my sweet Czech friends, Pavlína and Aleš. (It seems to be an adventure that Czechs enjoy, visiting a new place and spending the night.) 

I met Pavlína last year and was adopted by her family.  She calls me her “Mom”, which is odd because I’m Z’s mom, but I’ve begun to accept that designation—I represent for her something good about America, which in all its irony, gives me a bittersweet gladness.  Aleš has been part of Project “New Eyes” since the first year in 2007. 

Aleš and Pavlína met a week ago during Dne Sušice through Brian and Sindra and are now one of the cutest couples ever.  Steve teased them about spending their honeymoon in Salt Lake City.  

After suffering an hour with a painful tooth, I slept well and hard.

David planned to catch a 6:00 am bus back to Chanovice and I heard him leave the room around 5:30.  Then he came back in and told me that we were locked in the castle.  By 8:00, we were all ready to leave, but there was no way out.  Finally, I knocked on the door of Maria’s apartment.  A big dog started barking and she came out to unlock the door for us, still groggy from sleep. 

We called Steve to pick us up, but when he found us on the road, I decided to just walk back with Aleš and Pavlína. 

They turned off the river path to go to Pavlína’s house and I kept walking into town.  A drop-in Czech writing class was scheduled for 9 am in the radnice, but no one showed.  I called Tomaš and he and Jana met Steve and me for breakfast at Fialka.  Another delightful morning of language discussion ensued and then I came back to Tomaše’s apartment where I have been writing and laundering and pondering God.

In all of these beautiful Czech eyes—Vladka, Pavlína, Maria, Tomaše, Radka, Helena, Roman, Aleš—I see God, spirit, love.

Steve was giving Tomaš a hard time for not providing me with a working dvd player and meals every day.  “What are you giving her?” he asked.

“We love her,” Tomaš said, that mischievous smile working as he echoed Steve’s words back to him, “I thought it was all about the relationships.”